A solution for letting cats enjoy the outdoors—safely

Making Peter Great Again – One Fountain at a Time

Most gardeners after about 40 years in the asparagus patch begin to at least consider downsizing. You know, cutting back to only three-quarters of an acre of weeds, fewer disease-plagued rose bushes and compost-pile-death to those ever-needy iris and day lilies.

The same with back-yard fountains. Sure, they offer bubbling sounds and elegant gushes of water at the flip of a switch, but the pumps go bad, the dirt clogs the outlets and it can be difficult to keep the hungry goldfish trapped within them happy.

Chances are the house, yard and garden fountains will eventually be sold to some minimalist gardener who only cares to raise a few onions in some ecologically-pure raised bed anyway.

Then there was Peterhof, the cozy 1,250-acre Russian complex of paths and gardens, 150 incredible fountains and a looming yellow palace first brought to light by aptly-named Peter the Great in St. Petersburg in the early 1700s.

Three centuries later it still tells a larger story: To hell with downsizing

Our summer visit there was part of a cruise ship trip to the Baltics, a journey that took in Russia, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Sweden and the Netherlands.

We saw plants aplenty – including a much too brief stop at Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, with its 15 separate gardens dating back to 1843 spread amidst a circus of splendid carnival rides and the ghosts of its 80,000 tulips that appear each spring.

But it was Peterhof that inspired the most memories – and we barely had time to wander one-tenth of the place. Downsizing for Peter the Great – and all those who came after him – was not on their agenda.

Peterhof was absolute proof there’s still a place in this world for a minimal amount of oversized attitude with a large nod in the direction of art history and engineering – and at least the Russians are paying for it. The Mideastern oil sheiks seem to try the same, but much of their works seems over the top and offensive.

Along with the clinging joy of honest sweat and dirt under the fingernails, that’s another thing I like about gardening; it asks that you wander the world a bit to examine what came before, and what a tiny place we all now occupy in that food chain.

Peter the Gardener, a big, handsome, alcohol-loving mix of foresight, genius and brutality, first mentioned the Peterhof site in his journal in 1705, but only as a good place to build a landing for his war efforts.

It all evolved from there, but only after he and his ancestors brought it some architectural help from France and Italy and the like. They also had ready access to about 10,000 laborers with absolutely no choice in the matter.

Few of them, I suspect, got any medical and retirement benefits or paid vacations. In fact, my first thought upon seeing all those massive, gold-edged European castles, palaces and churches is always of the people who built them. The rest of it is aristocratic arrogance and God’s misspent money.

So, evolve Peterhof did. It grew several palaces, the grandest being The Great Palace built during the reign of Empress Elizabeth. And over time such palace walls across Russia and Europe were coated with paintings by Rembrandt, van Gogh, Goya and such.

For all that, Peterhof reached its true glitzy height when Catherine the Great, the Russian Hostess With the Mostess from 1762 until 1796, held all-night parties there illuminated by 10,000 candles.

Peterhof has a lot of shrubs, flowers and trees; many of which I see back home again in Indiana. Although I know better – and have traveled the European world a fair amount looking at gardens – that is always something that still surprises me a little. I mean shouldn’t Mother Russia offer us only Russian plants, and if they had to send one to us, why the very invasive Russian olive? Was Putin behind that?

In a totally horrible way, Peterhof was downsized by the Germans in World War II. The pictures show a bomb-shredded landscape, smashed walls and fountains torn to pieces. It was war-mentality so ugly Stalin bombed it just to forgo Hitler the pleasure of using it.

But the outsized gardens mattered in Russian history, and to its people. The fountains were rebuilt to full size and working condition. All of them. There was no downsizing. The place meant too much. Peterhof now gets 4.4 million visitors a year.

Those fountains are amazing. Their inherent genius is the leaping streams of water are not pushed by pumps, but through huge lakes and reservoirs built above them. The gravity-fed water flows downhill through pipes, the water pressure building to the point the fountain spray erupts 60 feet into the air.

The most glorious of them – the Sampson Fountain with its golden figure of that legendary warrior wrestling with the jaws of a lion – is the centerpiece of the Grand Cascade. Its 64 fountains and 200 bright-gold statues gush water in all directions, an elegant frenzy of art, engineering, history and spectacle. All that water then flows gently down the Sea Canal past other surging fountains to open waters.

Some credit, please, to those ancient artists, architects and forgotten laborers. Their fountains first cranked up in the early 1700s – more than 300 years ago. The Germans stole the original Sampson during World War II. The Russians replaced him by 1947. Fully operational and still going. Wow.

No downsizing there.

Making Peter Great Again – One Fountain at a Time originally appeared on Garden Rant on July 28, 2018.

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How Are You Giving Back To The Earth?

The post How Are You Giving Back To The Earth? appeared first on Miss Smarty Plants.

Once a year, on Earth Day, we all tend to be a little more conscious about how we’re treating the world we live in. We think about how we live, and the impact that it has on the planet. But what happens for the rest of the year? Do we just let it go, or should we continue on with our efforts?

The below infographic shows you exactly how you can keep up your Earth Day practices year-round to really give back to the earth. But here are three key points that you can start with.

Look After Your Lawn

First of all, you’re definitely going to want to take better care of your lawn. If you’re overusing fertilizers and chemicals, you may find that it then goes on to affect the rest of the ecosystem – and that’s definitely the opposite of what you want to happen.

Be Resourceful

Next, you’re going to want to make sure that you’re being conscious of what you’re using – how and you use it. Here, we’re not only talking about recycling what you use trash wise, but also what you’re using in the garden. It’s easy enough to set up a water tank to collect rainwater and use it for watering the garden – and this can save on water waste for the garden.

Volunteer

Finally, you may also want to volunteer your time to local organizations that are looking to clear up the community or rivers, parks, and community gardens too.

Infographic Design By Earth Day Tips

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The Summer Containers

By no means have I had a chance to go back and look at all of the container projects we planted in late May and June, but I have had a chance to see a few.  The season so far has been very friendly to the tropical plants. I am referring to the heat, of [...]

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The Sights of Cornell, Ithaca and More

Almost on a whim I drove to Ithaca to attend the Children and Youth Garden Symposium being hosted by Cornell (with the American Horticultural Society), and I’m glad I did.

First, the stunning beauty of the campus, the town and the whole region reminded me not at all of the flatlands of Northern Ohio where I went to school. Above is the Plant Sciences Department, where the symposium was held.

One treat was meeting Craig Cramer, who started a blog way back when the Rant launched and became an early commenter. Here he is in his office showing off one of the many scanned-art works he’s famous for. See lots more on his blog Ellis Hollow.

The Cornell Botanic Garden, until recently unfortunately named the Cornell Plantation, was so much more than I’d expected.

The Herb Garden was my favorite part, so much so that I couldn’t choose between these shots.

The Cornell BG includes a whole arboretum with this lake, a shrub collection and much more.

And possibly unique among botanic gardens? A big honking gorge! The Cascadilla Gorge and its trail connects connects the Cornell campus with downtown Ithaca.

You got that? Stunning natural areas right in the middle of the city! I walked part of the trail early one morning and a dog-walker recommended I climb the narrow Cascadilla Park Road that runs along the gorge, calling it a “really cute street.”

Sounded good to me and sure enough, there were gardens and funky homes everywhere.

The architecture in this neighborhood and throughout Ithaca is a fabulous mix of my favorite home types.  

Cute house, impossible upkeep? Boy, I’d love to know how often this hedge has to be trimmed and how long it takes. (I’m nudging my housing coop to stop recommending hedges, despite their prominence in the original plan for the town.)

Like any good boomer tourist, I had to find the original Moosewood Restaurant, in downtown Ithaca. Larger than I imagined, but just as lively.

A fun symposium event was visiting the Ithaca Children’s Garden, shown here with AHS president Beth Tuttle and AHS horticulturist Dan Scott.

The Anarchy Zone presumably doesn’t have to look like a garden. On the right, who doesn’t love a labyrinth?

Honey-harvesting and -tasting.

For still more nature-in-the-city, I visited Stewart Park along Cayuga Lake (one of the famous Finger Lakes) and found it positively strewn with folk music performers. Felt like home.

And going all-out-nature, I visited Treman Gorge, just 4 miles outside of Ithaca and a top recommendation by my old friend Craig Cramer.

Coming soon to GardenRant: what I learned at the Youth and Children’s Garden Symposium, which I promise I really attended.

The Sights of Cornell, Ithaca and More originally appeared on Garden Rant on July 27, 2018.

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Natives here, natives there, natives, natives everywhere…

Painted plants? It’s only Ok when I do it.

Home For The Garden Cruise

Our 11th annual Garden Cruise this past Sunday July 15 was a success in a number of ways.  We sold a record 405 tickets, and hosted 150 people at Detroit Garden Works for our after tour bites and beverage reception. The fine dining part of that reception was engineered and presented by Toni Sova, the [...]

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Common Gardening Mistakes

The post Common Gardening Mistakes appeared first on Miss Smarty Plants.

Gardening is a fun and rewarding task, but it can be incredibly stressful and complicated too. No gardener is perfect just like there is no such thing as the perfect garden, so, whether you’ve been gardening for six days or sixty years, we all make the odd mistake here and there. Of course, making mistakes gives you the opportunity to learn, but it’s always better to learn beforehand and avoid them when you can. Keeping that in mind, here are four common gardening mistakes everyone makes.

Planting Way Too Early

Once you’ve bought your seeds, soil, and everything else you need, it can be tempting to get planting right away. We all get impatient now and then, but you have to hold yourself back and resist the urge to start planting. You need to take the time to prepare your seeds, and your soil or nothing is going to grow. Make sure you dig and double dig the garden beds, adding plenty of compost as you do. This ensures that the ground is fertile and loose enough for your plants.

Forgetting About The Sun

Before you start to dig and plant, you need to ensure that the spot you have chosen is suitable for your plants. We know that plants require sunlight to grow, but different varieties have different needs. Where some require almost constant sunshine, others prefer to be in the shade for most of the day. Because of this, you should do some research on the plants you intend to grow before you buy them and make sure that you have a spot in your garden that will work.

Letting Weeds Grow 

Weeds will compete with your plants for light, water, and other resources, so it’s crucial that you deal with them as soon as you can. Unfortunately, weed control can be tricky to master, so you need to do plenty of research to avoid damaging your own plants. You might even want to consider hiring a professional to help you out. Whatever you do, ensure that you stay on top of the issue or it will quickly get out of control.

Over Or Under Watering

You need to make sure that your plants get the right amount of water or they simply won’t grow. If they get too little, they’ll start to wilt and will eventually die, and if they get too much, then their roots will begin to rot, leading to the same result. Most plants need watering between one and three times a week, but this will depend on the variety and weather. Make sure that you get the ground, rather than the leaves, or the water won’t reach the roots.

Everyone makes gardening, and while they offer a great opportunity for you to learn, it is best to avoid them when you can. Hopefully, with the tips and advice above you can do just that and ensure that your garden remains beautiful and healthy all year around.

This contributed post may contain affiliate links.

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Pond Life: Building Your Very Own Pond

The post Pond Life: Building Your Very Own Pond appeared first on Miss Smarty Plants.

Your garden is your own  private piece of mother nature’s bounty. It’s your refuge from the world and all its problems. It’s a place in which you can relax, unwind and meditate while surrounded by nature’s subtle perfumes. We all have a slightly different idea of what makes the perfect garden. Some will use their garden as a resource to grow delicious and nutritious food for their families. Others will use it to make a statement, filling it with a dazzling array of plants and statement pieces like water features to wow guests. Others will simply aim to create an outdoor haven in which they, their family and guests can be at peace, sip lemonade, read a book and simply enjoy the psychological and spiritual benefits that come with being surrounded by nature.

For these people, some form of water feature is a wonderful way to not only make a statement but add to the soothing ambiance of their outdoor space. We all find proximity to water relaxing and a pond is a wonderful way to add character to your garden while also enhancing its relaxing and restorative qualities. Think adding a pond to your garden will be too much hard work? Think again. Like anything else, installing your very own pond is easy… When you know how.

Pre-made or create your own?

If the prospect of installing your own pond makes you a little nervous, you can always opt for a premade pond available in most garden centres. Premade ponds have their own inherent advantages and disadvantages. You are beholden to a particular shape when using a premade pond but they are relatively quick and easy to install and come in a wide range of shapes and sizes. They tend to be smaller and shallower than traditional liner built ponds. As they’re smaller it may be harder to maintain an ecological balance within them, meaning that your pump and skimmer may need to work a little harder. Moreover, smaller ponds are prone to overheating, resulting in disproportionate algae growth.

Preparing and marking off the area

Your first decision is where your pool will go. If you’ve already been to the garden center to check out some premade ponds then you likely have a good idea of the kind of size and dimensions that you will be dealing with. If you’ll be starting from scratch using impervious lining, you will have more freedom in deciding your dimensions. Perform a rough check of the measurements and it’s also worth checking in with your local authorities to ensure that there are no underground cables or pipes in the area that may be disrupted by your excavation.

When you have decided on your location, mark out the dimensions of the pond in rope or spray paint. It’s more than likely that you will need a water pump and skimmer. You can check out a selection of pumps for your pond right here. Place your pump and skimmer at opposite ends of the pond. If you’ll be using a waterfall filter, install this at the opposite end from your skimmer.

Excavation

Now it’s time to roll up our sleeves. Dig your pond area approximately 6-8 inches deep. If you’ll also be installing a waterfall, use the dirt to build a wall to seal in your waterfall box. If you’re using a premade pond, it’s a good idea to leave around an inch or two of leeway between ground level and the dept of your pond. Once the area has been dug out, use some spray paint to mark out an outline for the deeper area of your pond. The size and shape are entirely up to you, but since will be filled with rock, it’s a good idea to avoid tight curves. The inner area should be excavated to a depth of around 2 feet. Finally, excavate a separate area for your skimmer box. Plan so that the skimmer opening will be around 1″ above water level. Install your skimmer and pump and connect an outflow pipe to the back of the skimmer.

Laying down the liner

Again, assuming that you haven’t opted for a premade pond, it’s now time to lay down the liner. But first we need to add a layer of underlay, working it into the rough corners of the pond. The best bet is to start at the middle and work your way outwards. The pond will move and settle over time so it’s a good idea to lay it down fairly loose. If you’re at all unsure there’s a great tutorial video here. Repeat the process again with your pond liner. Attach the liner to your skimmer box using the faceplate.

Boulders, rocks and gravel

Now it’s time to rock! Put larger boulders down first for structural support, and mark out the pond’s vertical walls. Next, fill in with smaller rocks, starting from the bottom and stacking on the inside of the pond. There’s no real right or wrong way to do this. It’s time to get creative, and feel free to rework the area as much as it takes to get it right. Attach your liner to the water box and use a layer of gravel to fill in any gaps in the rocks and boulders.

The finishing touches

Before you fill the pond now is the time to add any lights you may want to nestle between boulders or add bog plants or lillies. You may also want to apply a fish friendly waterfall foam to fill in the gaps between rocks in your waterfall area. This will lend it structural support and help to encourage water flow. While the pond is filling with water, go around the perimeter trimming off your lining. Leave a margin of around 6 inches which you can then cover with gravel for a seamless appearance.  

Et voila! A perfect and peaceful pond! Now it’s simply a matter of choosing the right fish!

This contributed post may contain affiliate links. 

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Redesigning Features of Your Backyard

The post Redesigning Features of Your Backyard appeared first on Miss Smarty Plants.

When it comes to gardening, many of us focus on maintenance. We mow the lawn, trim bushes, prune trees, pull up weeds, and water any herbs and plants that we’ve bedded and are nurturing. However, every now and then, you might want to take larger, more significant, and more structural change into consideration. Why? This can really make your outdoor space look like a completely different place in a positive way. Now, these changes take a little more time, planning, preparation, and investment, but the outcomes are more than worth everything that goes into them. So, if this sounds good to you, here are a few different options for you to consider!

Installing a Patio

When we think of backyards, we tend to think of relatively green spaces. But your backyard has so much more potential than hosting lawn alone. Patios are a brilliant addition to almost any property’s space. Patio makes your outdoor space useable, providing you with a flat surface outdoors where you can place tables and chairs, sun loungers, or other furniture. Realistically, you’re not going to be able to install this yourself. That is, unless you want to invest some serious time and money into becoming qualified as a professional contractor. So, collaborate with professionals in the field who will be able to carry the work out on your behalf. Once the patio is fitted, you can add extra touches for flair, functionality, and comfort. High-quality backyard furniture from patioproductions.com will suddenly become a feasible option, as you’ll have a stable flat surface to rest it on!

Installing a Pond

While ponds may not be the best option for those with kids and pets (any expanse of water could pose a safety risk), they are great for many. Not only do they act as a source of water for various animals and birds, but you will see little eco-systems starting to establish themselves within the pond itself too, as it will provide a habitat or water source for birds, small mammals, and amphibians such as frogs, toads, and newts. The easiest and most sensible way to establish a pond is to leave the work to professionals who will have all of the necessary equipment to dig a deep enough hole, line it, fill it with water, and make everything look a little better finished and a little more natural than a DIY job would be likely to produce.

These are just two different options that you have on hand if you’re considering doing a little extra work on your backyard this summer. Not only will they make the space more appealing and functional for you to spend time in, but the latter will also help local wildlife and your local ecosystem too. Your project will result in winners all round!

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Will it Sting? Bee or Wasp?

Will it Sting?

Will it sting?  How to tell is it a bee or a wasp?  Is it something should worry about with my children or pets around?  Is it aggressive?  Can I treat this myself, or should I hire a professional?  There are lots of questions we get from clients when it comes to stinging insects.  Here’s a good beginners guide to commons stinging insects found in the Greater Lancaster, Harrisburg, and York areas.

Bumble Bee

Can it sting? Yes.

Is it aggressive? No.

Are they beneficial insects?  Yes, they’re pollinators.

Where will I find them? Most often, you’ll see them in gardens, moving from flower to flower.  This goes for vegetable gardens, too, when your tomatoes and peppers are in bloom.  These do not require hiring a pest control professional.

Honey Bee

Can it sting? Yes, if threatened.  However, each worker can only sting once.

Is it aggressive? No.

Are they beneficial insects? Yes, they’re pollinators.

Where will I find them? Similar to bumble bees, you’ll most often encounter them in your gardens. Honey bees have been known to set up colonies in strange places, ranging from trees to the interior walls of homes.  NOTE: Honey Bees are protected by law.  If you have positively identified a colony, contact a beekeeper to remove the nest.

Carpenter Bee

Can it sting? Females, yes.  Males, no.

Is it aggressive? According to Penn State (hyperlink: https://ift.tt/2O71jeL), males defend their territory aggressively but are not a threat to people.

Are they beneficial insects? Yes, they’re pollinators.

Where will I find them? You will most often see carpenter bees anywhere there’s wood on the property.  You may find them using the rafters of your home for a nest (going in and out of the soffit) or the wood that makes up your deck.  Accessing the nesting site may prove challenging for homeowners, so professional help is often recommended.

Cicada Killer

Can it sting? Males, no.  Females, yes, and stings are exceptionally painful

Is it aggressive? Males hover over their burrows and look aggressive, but you basically have to step on one with bare feet to get stung.

Are they beneficial insects? Not pollinators but do feed on cicadas.  They sting the cicadas, leaving them in a coma-like state.  They then lay their eggs in the cicada, and when they eggs hatch, they have a fresh meal on-hand (the cicada).  This makes them a type of insect known as “parasitic wasps.”

Where will I find them? You will find cicada killer wasps in the ground. Usually in thin turf or bare ground you’ll find their little burrows, with soil dug up and pushed out of the hole.  Professional control is not usually needed, but many companies offer control.  Homeowners may do control themselves, but exercise caution.

European Hornet

Can it sting? Yes.

Is it aggressive? Yes, very.

Are they beneficial insects? Not pollinators but are carnivorous with other insects.

Where will I find them? European hornets often are the only true hornet we have in North America.  We often get calls from clients that have a diseased or dying tree on the property, and the hornets have nested in there, but have also been known to nest in wall voids.  If you suspect you have a nest, give it a wide clearance, and call a pest control professional.

Bald-faced Hornet

Can it sting? Yes.

Is it aggressive? Yes.

Are they beneficial insects? They are not pollinators.  They do eat other insects, especially flies and other types of yellow jackets.

Where will I find them? Bald-faced hornets will typically build a nest, similar to paper wasps.  These will often be hanging from something, like the eaves of the home or a tree branch.

Mud-Dauber Wasp

Can it sting? Yes.

Is it aggressive? No.

Are they beneficial insects? Mud-daubers will feed on spiders, so I guess that depends on your perspective.

Where will I find them? Mud-daubers are so named because they frequently build mud “tubes” on the side of a structure.  You will find these tubes in places that are protected from rain, like the top of an exterior wall near the eaves.  This is so that the mud they build their nests from doesn’t get wet and fall apart.

Yellow Jacket

Can it sting? Yes.

Is it aggressive? Probably the most aggressive we deal with. If you encounter them, we encourage you to physically run away and call a pest control professional.  They will attack in large numbers and can sting repeatedly.

Are they beneficial insects? Not pollinators.  They do eat other insects, but it’s not worth keeping them around.

Where will I find them? Yellow Jackets can either make a nest in a structure OR a nest in the ground.  Many homeowners accidentally encounter them when gardening during the summer.  They will also build nests in a structure that can get rather large; we’ve dealt with several homeowners who can actually hear the buzzing of a large colony between the walls of their home.

Paper Wasp

Can it sting? Yes

Is it aggressive? Only when disturbed.

Are they beneficial insects? Like cicada killers, they are parasitic wasps.  They sting other insects and paralyze them so their young can feed at a later time.

Where will I find them? Paper wasps build nests using chewed up tree matter, hence the term “paper” wasp.  These nests are frequently in trees.  We most often talk to clients that encounter a nest when mowing under a tree in their yard.

 

Bee or wasp stings can be painful.  If you see a stinging insect on your property that isn’t listed here, or you’re having an issue with one of the pests listed above, we’d be happy to consult with you. Please Contact Us, and we’ll do our best to be of assistance.

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Slow Flowers Summit and the Farmgirl Story

Great Dixter Through the Lens of an 11-Year Old

Gardening For Health – Part II

You’ve Done the Work: Now Enjoy Your Yard!

The post You’ve Done the Work: Now Enjoy Your Yard! appeared first on Miss Smarty Plants.

You’ve spent months working hard on your yard. You’ve toiled, you’ve been sweating, you’ve put all the reading you’ve done about gardening into practice, and now in it’s finally finished! While you’ll always need to stay on top of your gardening to ensure nothing falls into a bad state, for the most part, your job is done. So what now? Why, it’s time to enjoy your creation from the inside – that means, making your outdoor space an enjoyable place to be. We take a look at how you can do this below.

Into the Outdoors

It’s more enjoyable if your outdoor space and the interior of your home aren’t exclusively separate. They should feed into one another, as if they were joined (which they are). To do this, look at opening up the back of your home to let in more light. If you have french windows, then you’ll be able to see outside and be more tempted to spend time there. It’s also much nicer to have a home filled with natural light, especially during the summer months.

Getting Comfortable

Once you step into your backyard, you’ll want to find decking or a patio there, upon which you can spend long days enjoying the sunshine. Add some affordable outdoor furniture, and a BBQ, and your summers will be filled with family and friend get-togethers. While you’ll spend your evenings on the patio, you might want to spend the summer days on your grass. In which case, you should strongly consider buying a hammock. There are easy enough to store, and will transform the relaxation levels of your outdoor space. 

Lighting

You’ll have your decking, chairs, tables, and so on, and now it’s time to add some outdoor magic. Adding fairy lights and other lighting fixtures to your garden will make your yard feel more charming and enchanting. When the sun goes down, there’ll be no need to head indoors to see each other – just switch on the lights. If you want to take the magic a little further, you can look at adding a firepit. These are especially awesome to have in early spring and fall, when the weather is pleasant but chilly in the evening.

Privacy

For all the additions to your yard, you won’t be able to enjoy fully until you feel like it’s private. Even though your neighbors probably aren’t watching, no-one wants to feel like they’re being watched! Adding fencing and hedges around the edge of the garden to add an extra level of privacy.

Bring the Fun

Finally, don’t be afraid to bring a little bit of your personality to the yard! Colorful gnomes, works of art, and other staples of “you” will make the yard feel more homey. If you’ve got kids, make the yard fun for them too by adding a splash pool or a swingset.

With these additions, you’ll be able to enjoy your yard for years to come!

This contributed post may contain affiliate links

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2018 Garden Cruise Tomorrow

I have seen every landscape and garden that will be on our tour tomorrow which benefits the Greening of Detroit. They are all very different, and all very strong. To follow are 19 good reasons why the this 11th Garden Cruise is worth taking.  The 20th, and most important reason, is that all of the [...]

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Watering Your New Lawn

You may have just invested in having seed or sod installed in areas of your lawn and would love for it to survive. Watering these areas properly is the most important factor in getting your investment to pay off. When it comes to watering new lawn areas there are a lot of misconceptions and assumptions that need to be cleared up. You’ve spent good money on this project and you’re going to spend even more time and money (on your water bill) to keep it alive. If you don’t, you’ll be spending it again to start your new lawn over. Here’s how you should be watering your new lawn…

Challenge Any Misconceptions You May Have

Many clients make some assumptions about newly seeded areas or about their newly laid sod. Let’s examine and debunk of few of these:

Don’t rely on Mother Nature

Rainfall can be very deceiving. You may think the great 20 minutes of thunderstorm just watered your lawn beautifully, but half of it ran off into the storm drain because it rained too hard, too fast, leaving only the top ½” of the soil wet. Unless it rains a light, soaking rain for at least 3-4 hours, don’t even consider natural precipitation as “watering”.

Standing with a hose is not good enough most times

Unless you have a very small spot, hose watering isn’t going to cut it. Remember, long, slow soaking. If you’re looking at an area of more than 100 sq. ft., don’t use the spray with a hose method.

You can NOT water anytime you want

This is especially true in Spring and Summer. Wet, dark, environments are conducive to growing turf diseases. Try your best to water in the early morning hours, right after daybreak. You can water your lawn during the day, just as long as you stop 4 hours before dusk.

You can water too much

The idea is to create a moist environment, not a flooded, pooling environment. This is especially true for seeded areas versus a sodded area. Pooling water is usually an indication that you’re giving too much water quickly to an area.

Just because new sod is losing color doesn’t mean it is dead

We’ve seen many instances where new sod becomes stressed because the temperatures rose or conditions were windy and dried out. Ramp up your efforts and you could see your sod green back up in a couple weeks.

How Much Should I be Watering, and for How Long?

This is a tough question because the answer changes based on how hot it is, how windy it is, whether you seeded or sodded, and how well drained your soil is. There are always variables. Understand that these guidelines are average guidelines. If you have any of those challenges just listed, you’ll have to adjust the numbers for your situation. For instance, if it is 90-100 degrees for a week, you’ll have to ramp up your efforts.

Your new lawn is immature for at least a year. On a sod farm, it takes this long to even get a piece that is ready to cut for use. If you’re seeding, remember it can take up to a year, under the best conditions, to develop tiny, fibrous roots that will reach deep into the soil for moisture. If the weather gets to freezing, you won’t need to continue watering until it warms up later in the year.

Let’s examine the main idea behind the different growing situations (seeding v. sod), and how you should be caring for the new turf.

Soil and Seed – Key Principles

There are different recommendations for before and after germination. Think of it this way; BEFORE= Less Water/Lots of Time. The first few weeks after seeding are the most crucial. You need to keep the seed moist.

Moist doesn’t mean water-logged. It means moist. You don’t need a whole lot of water on the seed to make it moist. However, that means it won’t take long to dry out. This is particularly the case with bare-ground seeding. The seed can dry out more quickly as it is more exposed to air.

This is why straw, Penn mulch, or Futerra matting is often recommended to help retain moisture. The best way to achieve this is to water the seeded areas for approximately 15-25 minutes, about 2-3 times per day. This will keep that top 1/2″-1″ of soil moist. Keeping the seed in that state will promote the seeds to germinate. If this process gets interrupted and you forget to water for several days, some seed will lose its viability to germinate.

You’ll need to adjust your watering habits once the seed has germinated.  Again, think of it this way; AFTER=Lots of Water/Less Times. If you’ve successfully made your grass seeds germinate, now is the time for them to mature from seedlings into mature grass plants. This means growing a healthy root system.

This, in turn, means the soil needs to be moist (again not water-logged), not the seed. Basically, you want to create a moisture-rich environment 2″-3″ below the soil so the roots will grow to areas with water present. If you only water to make 1″ of soil moist, guess what? You’ll only get 1″ of root mass because there’s nothing for a root to get below that.

The best way to achieve this is to water the seeded areas for approximately 45-60 minutes, about 2-3 times per week. That will encourage roots to plunge deeper into the soil.

Aeration/Seeding and Slice-Seeding – Key Principles

The same principles that apply for the seeding listed above, apply for aeration/seeding and also slice-seeding. There are two advantages of these operations over bare-soil seeding.  Because the seed is incorporated into the soil in either holes and/or slices, the seeds 1) will not dry out quite as quickly, and 2) will not wash away during a downpour.

Be sure to follow the guidelines listed above and in a few weeks you’ll see your new grass plants emerging from the holes and/or slices. You may continue to mow as needed, just use extra care when turning your mower, especially in areas that were very thin at the time of seeding.

Sodding – Key Principles

Sod will require significantly more watering efforts to keep alive and to establish than seeding. When sod is harvested the majority of its root system is removed. It’s your job to keep it alive and promote new roots to grow deep into the soil.

This will require heavy watering at least twice a day, maybe more depending on how hot or windy it is afterwards. Watering each area 2-4 hours at a time, 4-5 times per week is an average recommendation. The point is to not only soak the sod, but to also create moist soil for 2” below it. Pull back pieces of the sod to inspect if you’re providing enough water.

After a few weeks, your sod should start to grow roots into the soil, making it unable to lift. At this point, you may reduce your watering efforts by approximately 25% on average. According to Turfgrass Producers International, your best bet is deep infrequent watering (as opposed to short, frequent watering). Remember that your new sod isn’t an established lawn for at least 1 year. This means if you install sod in the fall, that you will need to water it appropriately throughout the following summer. Sodded lawns should also have fertilization programs added after installation as well as have aeration added approximately 1 year after the installation, to ensure proper rooting.

How to Get the Job Done

There are all sorts of irrigation options. Systems that work the best are ones that allow you to adjust, ensuring coverage of the space being watered. Obviously a professionally-installed irrigation system would be the best option but it’s also the most expensive solution, and it’s permanent. Oscillating Sprinklers are great for narrow, long areas. Their pattern is that of a rectangle. They aren’t good to use if you have lots of over-hanging branches over the new lawn area. Stationary Sprinklers are good to use if you have a small area to irrigate. They operate with low pressure and have a small pattern which is ideal for small spot-seeding. Pulsating/Impact Sprinklers are usually the best choice. They rarely clog and are easily modified to adjust spray distance and droplet size in a circular or semi-circular pattern. When it comes to sprinklers, try to purchase sturdy metal versions over cheap, plastic ones. Timers are also a good purchase as they make your watering efforts more structured.

How to Tell if You’re Watering Correctly

There are times that you can physically inspect the soil with your fingers to see if it’s receiving ample moisture and to what depth it is moist. However, this is difficult in the presence of established turf. If you are trying to measure the amount of irrigation you are delivering, you can use a can such as a large tuna can. Place the can halfway between the sprinkler head and the extremity of its reach. The can will allow you to measure how many inches of water you are delivering to a given area.

We wish you the best of luck! If you take the time and commit to watering correctly, you’ll get the most out of your investment and have a beautiful, healthy lawn.  If you have additional questions and you’d like to speak to one of our professionals, please Contact Us.

The post Watering Your New Lawn appeared first on Tomlinson Bomberger.

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Coop Office Make-Over at Mid-Summer

When I last reported on this make-over I declared that I’d kept the old junipers, despite your advice, and showed pics of the limbed-up old junipers looking pretty sculptural with all the dead matter removed.

But now with dozens of new perennials and 18 new shrubs all at their mid-summer best, bare juniper parts are barely visible.

This is my favorite before/after combo – what people see as they leave the visitors’ entrance. I cringed every time I saw those overgrown junipers made ugly and half-dead by shearing.

Like most landscapes around public and commercial buildings, this one HAS to be low-maintenance while looking good. So like the “Mostly Shrubs” city center I recently showed you, the shrubs here will eventually fill up these foundation borders, and I’ll gradually reduce the number of perennials to pockets of color here and there.

Naturally, there are no annuals, and therefore no need for irrigation after new plants (all pretty drought-tolerant) are established.

Thanks to all the full-grown perennials donated for the project, the garden looks pretty darn full in its first year, and the coop only had to spend $1,500 on plants and materials.

Anyone hazard a guess as to what this make-over would cost if done professionally – with no volunteer gardeners or donated plants?

Plants ID’d

Shrubs above: 3 ‘Gumdrop Burgundy Candy’ Ninebarks (native, fast-growing, ultimate size 4-5′ x 30-36″) and 3 ‘Golden Mops’ Threadleaf False Cypress we chose for the yellow leaf color to contrast with the deep green of the Junipers and purple leaves of the Ninebark.

Perennials above: 2 ‘Walker’s Low” Catmint, a few donated Garden Phlox and many donated Black-eyed Susans (native and the Maryland State Flower. This cheerful long-bloomer is so popular in Old Greenbelt, it’s almost our signature plant.)

Shrubs above: ‘Ginger Wine’ Ninebarks, and  ‘Ogon’ Spireas (chartreuse, willow-like leaves and white flowers in the spring).

Perennials above: Many donated Purple Coneflower, another native, with long-lasting blooms that we’ll leave up in the fall for the goldfinches that love their seedheads. The white flowers on these (instead of the usual purple) were a big surprise. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is an orange-blooming native plant that’s great for pollinators. And more Catmint ‘Walker’s Low.’

Shrubs above: 3 ‘Silver Mist’ Junipers’ (ultimate size 1′ x 5′), and ‘Ginger Wine’ Ninebark. 

Perennials above: Tons of donated Black-Eyed Susans, and 3 Kahori Scarlet Pinks (Dianthus hybrid), which bloom almost continuously throughout the season.

Coop Office Make-Over at Mid-Summer originally appeared on Garden Rant on July 13, 2018.

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Landscape Watering to Beat Summer Heat

You may have just invested in having new trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, and/or groundcover plants installed in your landscape and would love them to survive. Watering these plantings properly is the most important factor in getting your investment to pay off. When it comes to watering trees and other landscape plants, there are a lot of misconceptions and assumptions that need to be cleared up. You’ve spent good money on these plants and you’re going to spend even more time and money (on your water bill) to keep them alive. If you don’t, you’ll be spending it replacing them when they die.  Here are some watering instructions to beat summer heat…

Challenge Any Misconceptions You May Have

There are some notions people have about watering their new plantings that just aren’t true.  Let’s clear up these assumptions:

Don’t rely on Mother Nature

Rainfall can be very deceiving. You think the 45 minutes of thunderstorm just watered your plants beautifully, but half of it ran off into the lawn because it rained too hard, leaving only the top couple of inches of the mulch wet. Unless it rains a light, soaking rain for at least 4-5 hours, don’t even consider natural precipitation as “watering”.

Standing with a hose is not good enough most times.

It may work for tiny flowers with 2″-3″ of a root system, but if you think standing there with a hose for a few minutes on that new tree or shrub will matter, you’re not doing enough.

Don’t wet the leaf tissue

Those cute little leaves may look thirsty, but they won’t absorb water by spraying them. In fact, you can promote fungal diseases by wetting the leaf tissue. Water at the base of plants so the roots can take in the water. Try to avoid overhead sprinklers as they will do the same thing.

You can water anytime you want

Obviously, early morning and evening are better because less water evaporates from the scorching sun of summer, but if you can’t water then, do it another time. It’s better to do it period than not to do it at all. Just make sure you are watering at the base of the plant. You can even water overnight!

You’re probably not going to water too much

We’ve only seen this on a couple instances over the past few decades here. The overwhelming majority of property owners underestimate how much water their plants should receive on a weekly basis.

How Much Water, and for How Long?

This is tough because the answer changes based on how hot it is, how windy it is, how much clay is in your soil, and what type of plant you are watering., etc. There are always variables. Understand that these guidelines are average guidelines. If you have any of those challenges just listed, you’ll have to adjust the numbers for your situation. For instance, if it is 90-100 degrees for a week, you’ll have to ramp up your efforts.

Your plants are immature for at least a year. The larger the plant installed, the longer it will take to repair its root system with tiny, fibrous roots that will reach out into the soil for moisture. According to the Arbor Day Foundation, it can take a couple of growing seasons to get that root system established. Be prepared to water when needed for the first year. If the weather gets to freezing, you won’t need to continue watering until it warms up later in the year.

You will need to water 3-4 times a week depending upon the heat, lack of rainy days, and soil conditions. If conditions are more severe or favorable, you’ll need to adjust.

Now, let’s examine the different types of plants’ requirements, along with principles and tips for getting things watered properly.

Trees

Key Principles

How big is the root ball? You aren’t just watering the first couple inches of soil. Your goal is to slowly water the soil/mulch over the root ball so that the water does not run-off, and slowly percolates down into the soil, soaking that entire root zone. An average tree that we install has a root ball of 20″-30″ deep. (Understand now why standing there with a hose for a few minutes doesn’t work?)

How to Get the Job Done

The easiest and cheapest way to water a tree is to lay a hose at the base of the trunk, a few inches away. Turn the hose on a slow trickle and watch it. If you are getting a bunch of run-off, you need to turn the hose down. You will most likely need to have the hose run for an hour on 3 positions around the trunk.

If that doesn’t seem like the method for you, you can use soaker hoses. These foam hoses connect to the end of a standard garden hose and drip water out their sides. Radiate the hose around the base of your trees so that they are spiraling over the whole root ball. Be careful not to connect too many soaker hoses together or the ones on the end won’t be getting enough water pressure. Usually after 100′ of hose you’ll start losing pressure. You won’t want the hose turned on more than 1/4 or 1/2 of the way.

If you’re looking for another method, another one that works great is using irrigation bags or containers around the base of the plants. These reservoirs fill up quickly with 10+ gallons of water and have small holes on the bottom that will slowly drip to water the trees.

Shrubs

Key Principles

The same principles that apply for a tree apply for shrubs, but with a lesser scale. Shrubs come in a variety of sizes of containers and root balls. Understand your goal is to get that whole root ball moist. How big is the root ball? You aren’t just watering the first couple inches of soil. Your goal is to slowly water the soil/mulch over the root ball so that the water does not run-off, and slowly percolates down into the soil, soaking that entire root zone. An average shrub that we install has a root ball of 12″-20″ deep.

How to Get the Job Done

The easiest and cheapest way to water shrubs is to lay a hose at the base of the plant, a few inches away. Turn the hose on a slow trickle and watch it. If you are getting a bunch of run-off, you need to turn the hose down. You will most likely need to have the hose run for about 10-20 minutes at 2-3 positions around the trunk.

If that doesn’t seem like the method for you, you can use the soaker hoses we just mentioned. Radiate the hose around the base of your shrubs so that they are spiraling around the root ball. Be careful not to connect too many soaker hoses together or the ones on the end won’t be getting enough water pressure. Usually after 100′ of hose you’ll start losing pressure. You won’t want the hose turned on more than 1/4 or 1/2 of the way, just like with the trees.

Flowers

Key Principles

Most of these plants will only have roots in the first 3″-8″ of soil after they are planted. This means a different approach. You won’t have to water quite as long in each location, but you may have that top few inches of soil and mulch dry out quickly depending on conditions. Whereas when you water a tree, the moisture is still down in the majority of the root system even if the top few inches dry out, with small plants, you may need to water more frequently if it is hot and dry.

How to Get the Job Done

You can use a watering wand (similar to a shower head) on the end of your hose and water each plant individually for 15-20 seconds, then give it about a 20 second break (you can move onto the next plant) and then come back and repeat that 15-20 second watering again for that small plant.

If you have large areas of annuals or groundcover you may want to consider using an overhead sprinkler. Just be sure you aren’t watering within 3-4 hours from dusk, so the plant leaves don’t remain wet all night and promote fungal diseases.

If you are using an overhead sprinkler, you’ll need to run your sprinklers a couple times a day for about 20 minutes each time.

How to Tell if You’re Watering Correctly

Don’t wait for the plants to tell you with wilting and leaves dropping off! If that happens, you’ll just be watering to keep the plant’s roots alive so it may possibly come back later. Inspect the soil. Dig around with your hands, soil probe, garden trowel, or shovel. You’ll be able to tell quickly how far down you are actually watering.

We wish you the best of luck! If you take the time and commit to watering correctly, you’ll get the most out of your investment and have beautiful, healthy plants.  If you’d like to talk to a professional about your landscape’s watering needs, please Contact Us.

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Managing plant withdrawal

Garden Maintenance Tasks You Shouldn’t Neglect In the Summer

The post Garden Maintenance Tasks You Shouldn’t Neglect In the Summer appeared first on Miss Smarty Plants.

If you would like to make your garden look fresh, lush, and impressive all through the summer, you should make sure that you are not neglecting some of the most important tasks that help your plants grow and stay healthy. With the heat of the summer, insects and parasites will arrive, threatening your harvest and your beautiful shrubs. Below you will find a few tips on how to stay on top of your summer garden.

Getting Rid of Infected Branches or Plants

No matter how well you have tried to prevent common tree and fruit diseases, chances are that the lack of rain and the abundance of sunshine have attracted some. If you have found any infections, nests, or sign of parasites, it is not only important to wash your trees and fruit plants, but you also have to get rid or the affected branches. You might want to invest in professional Chain Cutting equipment to prevent the infection to spread throughout the plant.  

Feeding Your Grass

Even if it rains regularly during the summer, and you don’t have to water your lawn, it is important that you use feed to keep it strong and lush. In case you  have kids or pets, your lawn will have a lot of pressure to endure, so it is important that you get rid of the dry grass and feed your grass to look its best.

Repairing Patches

It is inevitable to have patches in the lawn, if you have kids or pets, or wildlife visiting. Whether you lie on the lawn and sunbathe or play football, you will have patches. There are some great fast-growing patch repair kits that will help you restore the shine and the strength of your lawn. You might consider choosing a lawn seed variety that is able to withstand the traffic and the dry weather as well.

Natural Insect Repellents

To keep insects and parasites at bay, you might want to create your own organic fruit spray that will keep them away. From bicarbonate soda to common soap and lemon juice, as well as the more prevalent cayenne pepper, there are several ingredients that will not pose a health risk on your family or the wildlife. You can still grow organic vegetables and fruit and keep the pests away.

Cutting Back Bushes after Fruits Have Ripened

To keep your garden in a tip-top condition in the summer, always cut back the bushes once the flowers are dry, or – in case of fruit shrubs – cut the branches after the fruit has been harvested. If you leave the dry flowers or stems on, you might have to deal with dry branches and dead plants later on in the year.

If you want to make sure that you and your guests can enjoy the garden throughout the summer, stay on top of your lawn maintenance, cut back bushes and branches, and prevent infestation by using an organic insect repellent spray. This way, you can have a garden you can be proud of.

 

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The post Garden Maintenance Tasks You Shouldn’t Neglect In the Summer appeared first on Miss Smarty Plants.

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